Newbie here! Hello ~ Questions about my piano.

[thenovice]

Hello everyone.  

I recently acquired a Lester, upright piano (not a spinet) - delivered to my home.  The piano was free so I've spent $0 dollars.  I did give him an old mountain bike (1995) for his daughter, but it wasn't a requirement.

Anyway, the mahogany is in rough shape, but I've refinished lots of furniture before so I feel relatively comfortable doing the sanding and staining.

What is a good oil to use on the piano?  If possible, I won't sand it down and re-stain it if I can find a good wood oil (linseed oil?) to put on the piano and see if that brings the life back into the wood.

The pin block seems very sturdy and none of the pins are loose.  The piano hasn't been tuned in about 15+ years, but some of the keys still sound pretty good and in tune - which seems surprising to me?  One key sticks and the ivory came off the highest key (on the far right), but I think I can glue that?

There are some cracks in minor places (around the piano hinge on the top board), and the front board that holds music - that wood "tray" is split, etc.  I think I can fix these minor issues with wood glue and some screws for the piano hinge?

I've wanted a piano since I was three years old; I'm 40 now.  My wife wasn't sold on the idea but I told her this was a 'must have' for me.  I plan on taking lessons here and there, and getting a good beginner book.  As soon as my son is old enough (he'll be 2 in Sept.) he will also take lessons.

Any and all answers will be read and I extend my sincere gratitude ahead of time.

Thanks for reading my novel.  

PS. My eyes aren't so good, so I bumped up the size; I hope no one finds it too annoying!  
PSS. I can snap some pics and upload them, if that would help.

[keys60]

With all due respect, Lesters are inexpensive pianos to say the least. They were popular sellers though because they are small, pretty and cheap. They are usually what you find in a nursery school. Its fine for a beginner student piano. What concerns me here is not that it is a Lester, but that it hasn't been tuned in 15 years. Unless you really know pianos, you wouldn't know a loose pin unless you but a torque wrench on it. It may or may not have adequate torque.
Second, the pitch has dropped a lot and needs a series of tunings in a short amount of time to stabilize it. It could be a while before it holds its pitch. Pulling strings up to pitch on an old piano could very likely result in broken strings that will have to be spliced (preferably) or replaced. NOT your technicians fault. It happens. Have the hammers checked too. They may need to be reshaped. Since pianos are wood, felt, steel and glue, some glue joints may also come detached, more that likely on the jack flange. The jack is what pushes the hammer towards the strings.

I'm happy for you that you finally got that piano that you had to have, and I'm sure you can have some fun with it. Just don't be too disappointed when you have to start putting repairs into it.

Hope I didn't burst your bubble. All the best and keep in touch.

[thenovice]

Is there somewhere I can check the serial number to see when the piano was made?  When it was made is the only piece missing from the history.  I'm guessing in the 1920's?  It's hard to see in this photo, but the serial number (I think?) is: 42393.

[john90]

I agree with Keys60 about value, work needed. But that looks like a decent typical 1900s design, lovely case style. That is just the sort of piano I would like to find here in Switzerland, a 1920s American brand in that sort of shape, that sort of price!

I wouldn't sand it (too much hassle & expense). I prefer the look and feel of the case when oiled, when, if you look carefully, you can see 100 years of use and abuse. Oil, wait a few months, then a hard rub, and wax after the summer is my approach.

Glue back all loose veneer before you oil the case- I have done that, but you need to wait a few years before you can glue back any veneer that comes newly loose, so do all that first! Also, no oil on the action.

If the pin block turns out to be shot, it should still hold tune for a couple of weeks, you might have to tweak it before you play.

I would hold off gluing the ivory for starters. You need special glue to stop it staining. I have never done that. Read through some of the other threads on here about tuning, hoovering out the action and case, cleaning the strings off a bit.

All this takes time, so a good honest tech would probably say it is not worth fixing at $45 an hour or whatever when a perfect piano might be $1000.

[thenovice]

Thanks john90.

You brought up a good point that I forgot to ask about!  The "hoovering" out the inside.

If I understand you correctly, I can search the forum here and get some advice/techniques to cleaning out the cabinet and, therefore, not needing to pay the tech ($45/hr) to do it.

I will go with the oil option because I would rather not sand it down and restain it.

What is a good oil to use, in your opinion?  I'm currently using "Orange Glo with Almond."  It comes in a spray bottle and I'm only using it because the guy that gave me the piano also gave me this bottle of "spray oil" for wood finishes, but I am open to spending the money on a good oil that will keep my mahogany healthy!!

[thenovice]

With all due respect, Lesters are inexpensive pianos to say the least. They were popular sellers though because they are small, pretty and cheap. They are usually what you find in a nursery school. Its fine for a beginner student piano. What concerns me here is not that it is a Lester, but that it hasn't been tuned in 15 years. Unless you really know pianos, you wouldn't know a loose pin unless you but a torque wrench on it. It may or may not have adequate torque.
Second, the pitch has dropped a lot and needs a series of tunings in a short amount of time to stabilize it. It could be a while before it holds its pitch. Pulling strings up to pitch on an old piano could very likely result in broken strings that will have to be spliced (preferably) or replaced. NOT your technicians fault. It happens. Have the hammers checked too. They may need to be reshaped. Since pianos are wood, felt, steel and glue, some glue joints may also come detached, more that likely on the jack flange. The jack is what pushes the hammer towards the strings.

I'm happy for you that you finally got that piano that you had to have, and I'm sure you can have some fun with it. Just don't be too disappointed when you have to start putting repairs into it.

Hope I didn't burst your bubble. All the best and keep in touch.

HAHA - no disrespect taken, and no bubble of mine is burst!

This piano seems rather large for a nursery, but I'm ok if it is a lower quality piano because it's beautiful anyway; additionally, I suck so bad that it wouldn't matter if I had a Steinway Concert Grand, or this piano.  Maybe when I'm 70 I'll be good enough to spend a ton of money on a piano! As of now, this piano is just fine for a novice, I'd imagine.

[keys60]

Well...you did say it wasn't a spinet!! I was more expecting a post WWII era console, not a pre WWI upright. That era probably produced a better quality piano than the latter years.
Anyway, according to the Musicians Piano Atlas, your piano was produced in 1907. Old it is and its a pretty nice axe.
There are chemical solutions called pin tighteners that can be applied to the pinblock that, although not miracle workers, do work. A tech ( or you if you be so bold ) can tilt the piano on its back and apply the solution around the pins and left there until it absorbs into the pinblock and tightens them up. The pins can be driven in a little deeper too, but that can be riskier because the wood is dry and can split. I think the chemicals could be a worthwhile try.

Wish I could see the dampers and the backchecks a little better. Those usually need some adjusting. Hard to tell, but the bridle straps (the little fabric strips) look like they may have been changed which means there has been some work done over the years, but still hard to tell how good the action is.

 You can use some tack glue on the keytop as it is not a real strong and permanent glue and can be removed if you mess up.

 Hey. Good find. Take it a little at a time and do the repairs as things break. After a while, you can decide you much you are willing to sink into it. A key leveling, action regulation, a good cleaning and tightening up is a good start. Considering the piano was free, these things can make it more enjoyable to play.

Oh. And if a few stings DO break during its pitch raise, its not a really ridiculous cost to have them spliced. Maybe 30-40 bucks each on top of the initial service call. Its up to you, but worth it.

Have a good time.

Curtis

[thenovice]

Well...you did say it wasn't a spinet!! I was more expecting a post WWII era console, not a pre WWI upright. That era probably produced a better quality piano than the latter years.
Anyway, according to the Musicians Piano Atlas, your piano was produced in 1907. Old it is and its a pretty nice axe.
There are chemical solutions called pin tighteners that can be applied to the pinblock that, although not miracle workers, do work. A tech ( or you if you be so bold ) can tilt the piano on its back and apply the solution around the pins and left there until it absorbs into the pinblock and tightens them up. The pins can be driven in a little deeper too, but that can be riskier because the wood is dry and can split. I think the chemicals could be a worthwhile try.

Wish I could see the dampers and the backchecks a little better. Those usually need some adjusting. Hard to tell, but the bridle straps (the little fabric strips) look like they may have been changed which means there has been some work done over the years, but still hard to tell how good the action is.

 You can use some tack glue on the keytop as it is not a real strong and permanent glue and can be removed if you mess up.

 Hey. Good find. Take it a little at a time and do the repairs as things break. After a while, you can decide you much you are willing to sink into it. A key leveling, action regulation, a good cleaning and tightening up is a good start. Considering the piano was free, these things can make it more enjoyable to play.

Oh. And if a few stings DO break during its pitch raise, its not a really ridiculous cost to have them spliced. Maybe 30-40 bucks each on top of the initial service call. Its up to you, but worth it.

Have a good time.

Curtis

WOW! 1907! I was thinking the 20's, so 100th birthday here in about 6 years.  As before, I am taking your advice to heart and will talk to my technician about the condition.  I do know this ~ supposedly ~ it was in one family forever and ever and the guy I got it from bought it from them in the 90's.  They had said they went through the entire piano, inside and out, and had everything fixed - updated - tuned - etc.  When he bought it, his daughter played it for about 3 years.  During that time he had it tuned twice.  So... the piano hasn't been tuned since about 1994 and it's been stored in a climate controlled basement... until now.

Unfortunately, I don't have a climate controlled basement - I have a hot, dry Colorado garage.  My plan was to do as much "oil" work on the wood during the summer, have the technician look at it, etc. and then in the fall move it into the house.

I am a bit concerned that our 1952 floors might not hold that much weight - the thing is HEAVY!!

Thanks again for your input Curtis!

Rik
PS. I can take pics of anything you like; just remember that I'm a "newb" so some of the parts you mention make me go... uhh....  hmmm....  and then I scratch my head. 

[quantum]

I am a bit concerned that our 1952 floors might not hold that much weight - the thing is HEAVY!!

If your floors can hold 10 people huddled together for a group picture, they can hold this piano.  If your floors can't hold a small number of people standing in one spot, you probably would have greater worries than having a piano fall through the floor.   

[jimbo320]

If you have a drop ceiling in the basement under the room where you're placing the piano I would consider using a couple of screw posts and a cross member to support the floor joists to be on the safe side.
Also consider all the environment changes you'll be putting the piano through.
Don't sand it! A good wood oil will keep the sound better not to mention a lot easier to do.

[thenovice]

If your floors can hold 10 people huddled together for a group picture, they can hold this piano.  If your floors can't hold a small number of people standing in one spot, you probably would have greater worries than having a piano fall through the floor.   

ROFL! Point well taken, quantum!

[thenovice]

If you have a drop ceiling in the basement under the room where you're placing the piano I would consider using a couple of screw posts and a cross member to support the floor joists to be on the safe side.
Also consider all the environment changes you'll be putting the piano through.
Don't sand it! A good wood oil will keep the sound better not to mention a lot easier to do.

Hey jimbo320!  We have a crawl-space under the house - so no worries on the drop ceiling/basement, but I'm glad you mentioned it because I would have never thought about the extra weight influencing how the drop ceiling would sit!!

After reading some posts, I've decided NOT to sand, but this post (your post) helped put the last nail in that proverbial coffin!  Thanks for taking the time to respond!!