Best treatment for Mahogany Cabinet...

[thenovice]

Hi,

I tried searching the forums but didn't have any luck.

I have a 1907 Lester Upright Grand with a Mahogany cabinet.  The wood is so dry it is rough to the touch, but else where on this forum I was advised NOT to sand and restain the wood.  They suggested oil treatments; however, no brand or type of oil was offered for said treatments.

What is the best oil for a Mahogany Cabinet that is nearing 100 years old??

Thanks 

[john90]

To give background, you are talking cosmetics here. This is a C1910 piano, with what looks like the remains of the original finish. Very nice. To keep things simple, cheap, low maintenance and authentic, and also beautiful, I suggest linseed oil, raw for the first 2 coats on really dry areas, leave it to soak in for 2 days or more between coats, then rub over over with boiled linseed oil (or turpentine), to clean the dirt and residue floated up out of the pores of the wood, and speed up drying. A couple of days later, a turps based cream beeswax polish. This is a simple, easy finish for an old Cabinet, that should look authentic, much better than a DIY stain/varnish in my view. All these things Granddad would have had available in the day.

I'm not sure what the very 'best' oil is. I have used clear linseed oil (containing no added dyes) on mahogany, which restored the colour in faded areas, even though the oil was much lighter than the final colour. I wiped off excess oil after a couple of days, otherwise dust can stick, making it gummy. After a few weeks I finished it off with a natural beeswax cream polish, made DIY style by a local bee keeper. I think a varnished and stained finish can look completely false, plus it is a lot of work, and the sand and dust can ruin the action, keybushings, felts, etc. Never get oil on the action or ivories or felts.

I have used this approach on several dried up finishes, tables, chairs, etc. It starts to look its best after a couple of years. Is very easy and low maintenance. After a couple of goes with beeswax I am confident enough to let the cleaner at it with modern rubbish in a spray can. I just smile and walk off confidently.

Once you do this, you can't change your mind and then varnish! The varnish won't stick to the oil until it is absorbed (a few years). Also any loose veneer needs re-glueing first, otherwise it won't stick. I have had pianos where I made the choice and oiled lifting/loose veneer. If I am keeping it for a couple more years, why not? It still looks much better.

The thing is to get a reasonably attractive workhorse, that you can learn on, and not spend half your life polishing, or working to pay for.

More importantly now. What is it you want to play. What is your dream piece. If you could click your fingers and play anything in the world. What would it be?

[thenovice]

Excellent response, john90, thank you.

I especially appreciate how you laid out the steps and timeline of what needs to be done.  I'll be plotting this 'schedule' out over the next few months.

My goal?  That's a bit more difficult for me to nail down.  I would like to study enough to get where I can "sight read" (spelling?).  Not to the point of sitting down and sounding like I've "known" the piece, but - after plinking for 10-20 minutes - I can play the piece fairly decently.  I know this goal is years away.

Another goal is to play any genre and style of music that moves me.  I realize this is also years down the road, but - like a turtle - I'll move slow and steady and, eventually, get to where I'm going.

I would also like to compose, or maybe it's more accurate to say I'd like to be able to put the sounds in my head to the ivory?  No doubt, I'll start out with 'chopsticks' but in the Student Forum, I posted asking about good, adult starter books and got some options there.

Thanks again!!

[jimbo320]

Linseed oil. DO NOT sand!

[thenovice]

Linseed oil. DO NOT sand!

Yes sir! hahaha, I will NOT sand.  Is there a difference between "linseed oil" and "RAW linseed oil"??

The piano has been tuned and sounds great (hope it stays that way for a bit), but is in HORRIBLE need of a good cleaning (the cabinet).

Is Murphy's Oil Soap ok to clean the cabinet, then do some linseed/raw linseed?

[john90]

Linseed oil, raw, is as it comes from the plant, and takes ages to dry, so is great for really soaking in, the first few coats. Boiled linseed oil has additives that make it dry more quickly. One of the problems of over oiling, with boiled (non raw) oil is that you can get a jelly like film building up on the surface, if you let the oil pool in cracks and fine details.

I have no firm idea about cleaning first off. One risk is that the original finish turns milky white if it reacts with the cleaner. I might give the case a wipe over with a slightly damp cloth, rinsed in water with a drop of dishwasher liquid, then try the raw linseed oil, let it soak on the dirt for a few minutes, agitate details with a soft old toothbrush, then clean it off. Repeat a few times.