Thanks!I see that for the upper part, the actual string is used as two strings, 50%sharing with semitone up/down. Is this common for all pianos?Does this mean that tuning one note could directly affect another?
Ok, thanks!A lot to learn it seems I tuned to A=440Hz (didn't know better)but it has generally dropped 8-11cMaybe that's ok?When adjusting individual strings, would you recommend me to tune to -8c overall flat,or to go for 440?How long time should it be before I try retuning it all with new measurments?BTW: Seems like overpull was something I should have considered before starting. But, Then I didn't know what that was. lolBTW2: When you tune, what precision do you use/ what is good enough for you?And, a hit string is sharper in the attack than the sustain. Where is correct reading?
Update: I've now tuned 3times (about) and I'm close to A440.Still some strugles though.Pins are hard -makes it tough to make smaller changes. It's mostly jumping up/down 20c, trying to hit the right pitch.And, it seems like the piano is still sinking, measured -10c in general. (Second tuning I did overpull by some 20c).I don't know if pins are loose, but some keys the strings are +-6c to each other.I'll try to embed a little audio-file, here:https://soundcloud.com/geir-sol/piano-2014-03-17-41-19/s-fhrBY
If your pins are loose they will be very easy to let off from an over pull and hard to get a lock. If they are really loose they will almost spin off by themselves, you can't lock them. Well seated pins take a little force to get them to back off, it takes a very deliberate touch with the tuning hammer to nail the spot you want . In the unison, you can hear it come into tune for you. It's all technique and experience that's all.