Just bought a German Feurich. Can I wax it, what kind of wax/polish?

[onesurfer1]

I assuming that the black glossy finish is polyester.  What kind of wax can I use to polish it and make it even shinier?

[visitor]

cory is probably the way the way to go for most situations where a light cleaning or very fine surface swirling or lightest scratches and cleaning are needed.
poly finish is great when clean and not scractched but if you have deep ones or even cracking or anything dirt smudges etc, ie scratches, then even thosecan only be seen from side angles under bright light, then you likely need to have a professional furniture re finisher come out. I have that finish and I had an issue that required a few hours of work and some specialized chemicals and tools to have it done (luckily i got the seller of the piano to pay for it shortly after i took delivery so i have no idea what that would cost you). that's the drawback, they look great and are 'hard' or durable finishes vs had polished satin (which I love too in certain cases). but once the surface is compromised, that's it, it's essentially plastic wrapped wood you're dealing with so hand polishing usually is ineffective but cleaning really helps, and this product has  a good rep for doing that well.

the cory products are good. I've been meaning to get this one and more keybright key top cleaner (for non ivory)

[iansinclair]

If it really is a polyester or polyurethane... I suppose the Cory.  That stuff is really hard to keep at its original gloss or anything near it.

For other finishes -- the shellac or lacquer finishes on top end pianos and older pianos -- Briwax in ebony or black colour.  It is the go to wax for restorers.  Just be sure to use the ebony or black colour -- anything else won't vanish the scratches or dull spots (and any other wax will actually make things worse!).

[huaidongxi]

signore sinclair, what would your recommendation be for a satin/matte finish ?  dankon.

[visitor]

signore sinclair, what would your recommendation be for a satin/matte finish ?  dankon.

and also for op and others, here is the reccs from the piano technician's guidle, excerpt pasted below I bolded the one answering your question but the information preceding it is good too

Basic finish care

Modern Pianos are finished with a variety of materials, from traditional lacquer to modern polyurethanes and polyester resins. Whatever the material, a piano finish is designed to protect the wood from dirt and liquid spills, reduce the damaging effects of humidity changes, and -- in the case of clear finishes -- enhance the beauty of the wood.
Modern finishes are designed to do their job without the additional aid of polishes or waxes. In most cases, a piano finish is best maintained by simply keeping it clean and avoiding exposure to direct sunlight, extremes of temperature and humidity, and abrasion.
1. Avoiding finish damage.

Your piano's cabinet, like all woodwork, is subject to expansion and contraction with humidity changes. Excessive wood movement can eventually cause the finish to develop tiny cracks and even separate from the wood. Moderating the temperature and humidity swings around the piano will help to preserve its finish as well as its overall structure and tuning stability.
Locate the piano in a room with a fairly even temperature, away from drafts, dampness, and heat sources. ALWAYS AVOID DIRECT SUNLIGHT -- it will age the finish prematurely and cause color fading.
To prevent scratches, never set objects on your piano without a soft cloth or felt pad. Never place plants or drinks on a piano, because spillage and condensation can cause major damage.
2. Dusting your piano

Dust is very abrasive, and can scratch the finish if wiped off with a dry cloth. To avoid scratching, dust the piano lightly with a feather duster. Alternatively, wipe lightly with a soft damp cloth to pick up the dust, followed immediately with a dry cloth. The cloths should be soft cotton such as flannel, because coarse or synthetic fabrics can scratch some finishes. Wring out the damp cloth thoroughly so it leaves no visible moisture on the surface.

To avoid creating swirl marks, always wipe with long straight strokes rather than circular motions. Wipe with the grain for natural wood finishes, or in the direction of the existing sheen pattern for solid-color satin finishes.

Because some exposed parts inside your piano are fragile, it's best to let your technician clean these areas.

3. Cleaning the finish.

To remove smudges and fingerprints, first dust using the damp/dry cloths as above. If heavier cleaning is necessary, dampen your cloth with a small amount of mild soap solution. A common product is Murphy's Oil Soap, available at most grocery and hardware stores.

4. To polish or not?

Before using polish on your piano, be sure it is actually necessary and beneficial. In general, most manufacturers recommend against using polishes because of the potential for damage to the finish and contamination of other parts of the instrument.

Common household products such as "lemon oil" or inexpensive "furniture polish" should be avoided. Despite the labels' claims that they "protect" the finish or "feed" the wood, they offer no protection from scratching and can actually soften the finish if over-used. Worse, they often contain silicones and oils that contaminate the wood, complicating future refinishing or repairs. Silicone is especially dangerous because of its tendency to spread within the piano, sometimes causing extensive internal damage. Avoid aerosol products altogether since the over-spray can contaminate piano strings, tuning pins and action parts.

An appropriate polish can help to restore luster to a dulled finish or reduce the tendency of some finishes to show fingerprints. However, it should be applied sparingly and infrequently, and all excess should be wiped clean with a soft dry cloth so no visible film remains. To prevent scratching, always dust before polishing. Specific recommendations follow.

5. Removing a heavy polish build-up.

If your piano's finish appears gummy, oily, or streaked, it may be contaminated with too much or the wrong type of polish. Adding more polish will not correct this problem. Instead the finish should be thoroughly cleaned, then evaluated for any further treatment.

To remove accumulations of old polish, use a cloth dampened with a mild soap as in item 3 above. Wring the cloth thoroughly to minimize wetting of the finish, and dry the surface immediately. Test a small area first to make sure the washing does not cause white marks or softening of an older finish.

If stronger cleaning is necessary, look for a product called "wood cleaner and wax remover" at hardware or wood workers supply stores, or ask your technician for a suggestion.

Once the original finish is clean, you can either leave it as is or enhance the gloss and clarity with an appropriate polish according to the finish type listed below.

Care of specific finish types

The two most common piano finishes are lacquer and polyester. Either material may come in clear, black, white, or other colors. Check your piano's owner information booklet to determine the type and recommended care of your piano's finish, or ask your technician or dealer for help if you're not sure.

Lacquer

Most, but not all, American-made pianos have lacquer finishes. They may be satin (dull sheen), semi-gloss, or high gloss.

Cleaning -- For general dusting and cleaning of lacquer finishes, see items 2 and 3 preceding. Be especially careful to avoid scratching high gloss finishes by using only very soft, clean cloths and wiping with light pressure. For satin finishes, always rub in line with the existing sheen.
Polishing -- Satin finishes are intended to be dull and will normally have a poor appearance if a gloss-producing polish is applied. If desired, a polish may be applied to gloss or semigloss finishes. Two common products are Guardsman Furniture Polish and OZ Cream Polish. Your technician may carry these or other products especially recommended for piano care. Note the safety measures listed under item 4 regarding selecting and applying polishes.
When cleaning or polishing a lacquer finish, avoid hard pressure on sharp corners and edges since the finish can easily wear through to bare wood.
 

Polyester

Most Asian and European pianos have polyester finishes in satin or high-gloss (called high polish). This material is harder and more scratch-resistant than lacquer, and best maintained by simple dusting and cleaning.

Cleaning -- Use the same procedure as for lacquer.
Polishing -- Satin polyester looks best when simply kept clean. Avoid gloss-producing polishes, which leave satin finishes looking shiny but scratched. High-polish polyester finishes need only be kept clean to maintain their gloss. However, high-wear areas such as the music desk may eventually develop a hazy appearance caused by many fine scratches. These areas can be buffed back to a high gloss using a product designed to remove tiny scratches from fiberglass boats or plastic windows in convertible cars. Two such products are Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #17 Plastic Cleaner, and Meguiar's s Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Remover--available from marine supply, auto-parts, or automotive paint supply stores. Your technician may carry special products for this purpose, or can recommend a local source.
Finish Repairs

Dents. scratches, and chips sometimes occur, spoiling the appearance of an otherwise perfect finish. Such damage can usually be corrected by a specialist in "finish touch-up". Your piano technician may perform this service, or can offer a referral.

[iansinclair]

signore sinclair, what would your recommendation be for a satin/matte finish ?  dankon.

I'd probably still use the Briwax -- athough if you aren't playing with scratches, the damp cloth followed by dry cloth routine works very well indeed.  And doesn't get wax all over your hands...

[huaidongxi]

visitor, thank you for taking the time for a detailed response.  since you mentioned the guardsman furniture polish, f.y.i. on their own website they've posted customer feedback, and a number of longtime users of the product complained about recent purchases, that the formula had been altered, much for the worse in their opinion.

[onesurfer1]

I cleaned it w one cup of warm water and two tablespoons of white vinegar.  One towel w solution (dampened) and another dry towel to dry it (both towels for auto buffing). Worked perfect for cleaning fingerprints and such. 

I thought I would polish it so that it would have a layer of more protection and mainly to have it looking like a shiny waxed car vs a non waxed car.
(A new car looks shiny already but if you wax n polish it it looks even more amazing.)

If I use the Cory spray, how often do u put that on?

Would I be better off using the polish for plastic window/plastic-headlights as mentioned on an earlier post?

[huaidongxi]

opinions differ on the cory product ; it certainly has some loyal fans, but others who've tried it, saw negligible results, and found something they preferred.  whatever you use, be sure you want the material left behind as residue or coating remaining on your piano, which means understanding the components of the substance whether it's the cory or something else.