Regulation?

[photowriters]

We are in the market for a new (to us) piano. We have narrowed down the search to three lines, Mason & Hamlin, Yamaha, and Steinway. We have enough room for a seven foot piano, but my question is not about size & brand versus sound. I need some expert information about touch and feel in regards to both the age of an instrument and the setup particularly regulation.

My knowledge of the action or escapement of a piano consists of this:

There are a bunch of levers connected together so that when you push on a key with sufficient force the note sounds.

What I have noticed from playing different pianos is that the dynamic range on some is easier to control on others, and some have a wider dynamic range than others. Those pianos with a “limited” dynamic range the reduced range is in the quieter dynamics. I am a learner not an experienced pianist so my observations may be questionable, invalid, or irrelevant, but I have noticed that the more limited the dynamic range, the less fluid or smooth the key feels.

On a piano that pianissimo is easily played, there is very little “hitch” in the key as it is depressed. On a piano that it is very difficult to play softly the key must be attacked at a higher velocity to get any sound, and if the same effort/velocity is used to produce a pianissimo on the instrument that soft dynamics are easy to produce, no sound is produced and there is a noticible “hitch” in the key. My assumption is that the mechanism needs to be adjusted (regulated?) because the hammer is being disconnected from the key too early in its travel.

Although it seems as if every “experienced” piano for sale suffers from the limited dynamic range malady, but many of the brand new units have the same problem. The older a piano is the more it seems to have this problem. Now the questions:

• I assume that in a new piano it is easily corrected, but is the problem correctable in an older piano?
• Should the correction process (regulation?) be part of the standard service when a dealer owned piano is sold regardless of the instrument’s age?
• If not, how much should I expect to pay a technician to adjust (regulate?) the instrument?
• In reasonable climate controlled conditions in the average air conditioned home, how often should one expect the piano to need regulation?

I am sure there are other questions I should ask, but I simply do not know enough to ask them.

Thanks,

Bob

[rachfan]

Hi Bob,

It's not clear from your post whether the pianos on your buy list are new or used, although it sounds as though you might be leaning to pre-owned.  Where you're looking at 7' models, I am surprised that the Baldwin SF10 is not on your list.   

Anyway, playing pianissimo has much to do with the length of the piano.  On a Steinway D or Baldwin SD10, both 9' concert grands, you can achieve pianissimo easily.  Why?  Because the key levers are the longest of any piano.  On a well-regulated 7' piano, pianissimo should be relatively easy as well.  It is with the smaller grands--parlor, medium and baby grands--where the pianist has to work harder to play very softly, as the piano levers are considerably shorter, meaning that the pianist has to apply more leverage through the keys.  Thus, it's primarily a mechanical thing.  Hopefully, though you're not basing your decision on this one capability of a piano!  And where you're not a seasoned pianist, part of the pianissimo problem could well be your still-developing playing technique.

The "hitch" you feel in the key is the escapement or let-off point.  It should be present in every key and be fairly uniform.  Its presence is not a flaw--it has to be there for the piano to function properly.  Playing appropriately means depressing the key through the let-off point down to the bottom of the key bed.  Not doing so produces a nondescript gray tone rather than a rich resonance.  Hopefully, your teacher is working with you on tone production.  Yes, there is an adjustment mechanism (the let-off) which can be adjust--should it actually need adjustment in the technician's opinion.  For example, if a hammer is giving a double strike against the strings, that might be a let-off problem, although it could also be the back check, the tension spring, or the key dip.  Few things are simple when it comes to piano actions.  In no case would a technician eliminate the "hitch", as it must be there for the escapement to work properly.  Yes, this can be adjusted (if needed) on a new or old piano too.  Once you've studied longer, this entire issue could very well go away on its own.

As a condition of sale, you can stipulate that the piano should be properly "prepped", meaning tuned and adequately regulated.  If a used piano is being sold "as is", then you'd probably have to negotiate a price for dealer prep, or have your own tuner take care of it following delivery.  Also, before buying any used piano, you should have YOUR technician-tuner evaluate the piano rather than relying on the dealer's say so.

How much regulation will cost you depends on how much needs to be done.  There again, if you have your own tech check the piano out, he can estimate the cost to regulate the action to bring it up to snuff. 

Climate is a factor, but a piano will need occasional regulation (most often minor regulation) simply from use.  There again, the frequency and intensity of use will be the determining factors.  I do much of the regulation myself (I'm a pianist who has watched techs for a very long time who have explained many procedures to me.)  If something is esoteric or complex, I leave that work to the tech.  Typically, if I notice a few needed adjustments that I'd prefer not to do myself, I make a note of them.  Then when the next tuning appointment is being made, I ask him to leave enough time to address those issues along with the tuning.

I hope this helps. 

[photowriters]

It's not clear from your post whether the pianos on your buy list are new or used, although it sounds as though you might be leaning to pre-owned.  Where you're looking at 7' models, I am surprised that the Baldwin SF10 is not on your list.

Yes, we are leaning towards used, pre-owned, "experienced" pianos, and we are open to almost any suitable grand piano. However, we are captive to the market and what is available here. One dealer did have a Baldwin full sized concert grand, but I was both unimpressed by the instrument as well as a bit short of space for a 9' piano.

Anyway, playing pianissimo has much to do with the length of the piano.  On a Steinway D or Baldwin SD10, both 9' concert grands, you can achieve pianissimo easily.  Why?  Because the key levers are the longest of any piano.

The "hitch" you feel in the key is the escapement or let-off point. It should be present in every key and be fairly uniform. Its presence is not a flaw--it has to be there for the piano to function properly.  Playing appropriately means depressing the key through the let-off point down to the bottom of the key bed.  Not doing so produces a nondescript gray tone rather than a rich resonance.  Hopefully, your teacher is working with you on tone production.  Yes, there is an adjustment mechanism (the let-off) which can be adjust--should it actually need adjustment in the technician's opinion.  For example, if a hammer is giving a double strike against the strings, that might be a let-off problem, although it could also be the back check, the tension spring, or the key dip.  Few things are simple when it comes to piano actions.  In no case would a technician eliminate the "hitch", as it must be there for the escapement to work properly.  Yes, this can be adjusted (if needed) on a new or old piano too.  Once you've studied longer, this entire issue could very well go away on its own.

That makes sense, but the difference I am talking about is much more pronounced. I tried two Steinway 9' concert grands that were side-by-side and the difference in the feel was remarkable. One was silky smooth with no discernible release at the let off point, and the other was quite abrupt. Both pianos were less than ten years old. In some other pianos the "let-off" is so early in the movement of the key that the key has to be struck rather forcefully to produce any sound.

Most interesting to me, and the reason why I made the original post, is the one Steinway concert grand was the only piano that I have seen with the silky smooth action. The action on that piano was adjusted so that the let-off point was so close to the key travel limit that it was difficult to feel. All other factors being equal, that is the feel I would like to have. Oh yes, the Steinway under discussion had just been used for a concert.

In regards to pushing the key all the way down to the bottom of the key bed, I learned that myself very early on, and if I am so careless as to forget, my teacher reminds me.

As a condition of sale, you can stipulate that the piano should be properly "prepped", meaning tuned and adequately regulated.  If a used piano is being sold "as is", then you'd probably have to negotiate a price for dealer prep, or have your own tuner take care of it following delivery.  Also, before buying any used piano, you should have YOUR technician-tuner evaluate the piano rather than relying on the dealer's say so.

I had already decided to make a sale contingent on regulating and tuning the piano prior to delivery as well as six months or so after delivery. We really do not have a piano tech, but the piano technicians' guild is located here in Kansas City, and they could certainly recommend someone locally.

How much regulation will cost you depends on how much needs to be done.  There again, if you have your own tech check the piano out, he can estimate the cost to regulate the action to bring it up to snuff.

That also makes sense, but there has to be some dollar amount range for regulating a piano. $250? $1,500? $750? Etc.

I do much of the regulation myself (I'm a pianist who has watched techs for a very long time who have explained many procedures to me.)  If something is esoteric or complex, I leave that work to the tech.  Typically, if I notice a few needed adjustments that I'd prefer not to do myself, I make a note of them.  Then when the next tuning appointment is being made, I ask him to leave enough time to address those issues along with the tuning.

I would like to be able to do that, but by the time I get enough experience, I may be looking up and the root side of the grass.

Thanks for your input, and yes it helps.

Regards,

Bob Wilson

[rachfan]

Hi Bob,

Here's the thing:  If you go to Steinway Hall in NYC, Steinert's in Boston, or wherever, they'll be at least four Steinway D's available for the concert and rental program.  If you try them out, one will be bright in tone, another mellow; one will sound full-bodied and rich with overtones, another one thin with pure fundamental tones; one will have a firm action, another a lighter action, etc.--with other pianos falling in between.  That's because artists have different needs and expectations.  Another consideration is the particular repertoire on the recital program.  Mozart sounds better with a more gentle sound, while Rachmaninoff requires thunder and lightning.  If none of the pianos quite hits the mark, then the artist chooses the closest one and tell the technician exactly what is desired, and it's regulated accordingly and put on stage.  The next user, of course, might very well not like it, and so it will be re-regulated... again, again and again.  So basically you can regulate the instrument however way you want it, whether the piano is new or used. 

As, for a range, if you have something quite minor, the price could be gratis.  Most tuners charge nothing additional if it takes a couple of minutes to do a few quick fixes after tuning.  At the other extreme, if the work will be significant, your cost might be $75/hour and up, depending on the local market.  If it will turn into a very substantial project such that you want a partial rebuilding the instrument (e.g., new strings, hammers, shanks and flanges, full action regulation, replacement of key and balance rail punchings for example), you might be looking at $5000+.   I hate to say it again, but "it all depends".

My sense is that if you leave regulation to the dealer, they'll likely spend the least amount of time necessary and possible to take care of basics and the obvious.  The more they can minimize time and cost in preparation, the higher the profit margin they squeeze out on the sale.  Once you have your own (soon to be found) tuner-technician, he'll do whatever it takes to make you a totally satisfied customer. 

For example, that Baldwin SD10 you saw that you disliked represents a serious lack of dealer prep.  That's not at all unusual, in fact it's classic.  Many many people have remarked that they've spotted an intriguing piano, but have had no way of evaluating it, as it has not even been tuned, there were painfully obvious mechanical issues, etc.  Basically, the dealer uncrated it, put a bench in front of it, and raised the lid.  Why?  Because until someone actually expresses interest in closing a deal, only then will the dealer spring into action to spend resources on prepping the piano.  Up until then, for the customer, it's all a matter of blind faith.  Otherwise, the piano continues to languish on the showroom floor like a diamond in the rough.  There is no Baldwin SD10 that when put ship shape cannot very easily go head to head with a Steinway D and hold its own.  There's no good excuse for dealers dealing in neglect.  That's why it'll be key for you to find your own tech to evaluate the used instrument that rises to the top of your list.

My experience with actions is that the the more noticeable the let-off, the firmer the action tends to be.  The more imperceptible, the lighter the action.  If you've got a top notch teacher and ask his/her opinion, they'll almost invariably tell you that a firmer action is better for learning, practicing and playing.  It affords better control which leads to more even playing and a better technique overall.  A light action can quickly lead to sloppy playing.  Before you ask a tech to take the let-off below manufacturer's specification, I'd give it serious thought, as it might not benefit you in the long run.  If you're a casual player (who sits to play a few popular tunes every few weeks or so), it won't matter.  If you're a serious pianist preparing and playing standard repertoire, it will matter a lot.

[photowriters]

Thanks for the reply.