I discovered the weird feeling of the keys whilst mastering the Chopin's prelude, struggling with the control of the keys. Seems like the difference bettween too loud and too quiet (I am talking about what I want to achieve in that precise moment!) is too much of a fraction.. The only thing I have to compare with just now is my memories of playing some nice instruments (upright and grand) while studying at the music school. I do remember that uprights had softer keys in general and grand pianos I remember playing had heavier keys. Of course, they all sounded different to each other, even the same make of the same grand piano - two of them could sound different. I don't remember this "emptyness" and bounciness of the keys though... I am talking about touch response ...
If that is you in the video, the first couple of clips that you put up, then you need some instruction in posture and hand/arm positioning. Not getting picky here but it means a lot ! You are way too high on that seat. Additionally, you let your left hand fall flat and even the wrist cave in which causes a break in forearm support. But start with the seating position first, try to get into a seating position where you have your forearm level to the keys.. That's the first step in keyboard control.I can't say from a few videos if you need a new instrument but that one is on the low end of digital keyboards/pianos. You can only expect so much out of it.
There are a few things at play here. The action is a compromise between cost and quality. You get 88 keys, they are actually weighted unlike toy keyboards, it feels somewhat like a piano, but at this price range they are still designed to be light and cheap. But the sound engine is also a big culprit in why you are struggling to get the right tone. I won't get overly technical here, but basically when you strike a key the velocity is determined and one of maybe 3 recorded samples is chosen based on that. So there is like piano level sample, mezzo-forte sample, and strong forte. Some instruments have more than 3, and some instruments do a better job of using filters to blend between them. But what is happening is your melody is going between the mf and f layers and as you are asking for a slight change in the timbre the sample changes from the middle to the top layer and it sounds like you are Jerry Lee Lewis.
Thanks nustyl, that's what I thought about no layers in between programmed tones... and lol about Jerry Lee Lewis ! :/ I think I will start saving up for a real instrument!
When you say "real" do you mean acoustic or a better digital ?
I mean a real acoustic piano ))
Unless you are already really close to buying an acoustic, you should definitely get a stand made for the casio cdp 120 (called cs-44p), instead of a generic x-shaped one. It's just so much better when the wobbling is gone, believe me.
Nice, good luck with your future purchase !
Where I live - Sweden - you can find acoustic pianos almost for free. People want to get rid of them and give them away for a symbolic sum, or at least if you arrange the transportation by yourself.
I built mine for the MP6 out of cabinet grade Birch Ply, glued and screwed together and stained in black Minwax Polyshades. It's better than a factory press board one and I have enough out of a full sheet left to build a second one. I think it cost me $70 and is rock solid. I even built on an almost full length music holder that spans over the piano.
Probably will be abetter quality too! I might approach my hubby nicely as I am not good with builiding things lol )
Probably so, however if you aren't keeping your digital piano for long it may not be worth the effort or expenditure .As to the piano you want to get, I assume you will look for a console or upright at any rate ?
I have never playes yamaha or Steinway, or kawai , they seem to be quite popular.