The price makes it worth viewing and testing out. Whether it is a good or bad piano remains to be determined. I saw a superior fifties Acrosonic console go for $100 before Christmas, the market is that thin for wood pianos. OTOH the electronic toys don't have the real sound or feel of a piano. Electronic piano playing is sort of like attempting to have a social life through a cell phone. Odd brands are often junk and sometimes superior, the name isn't everything. Kurtzmann Grinell Bros of Detroit and Willis are three orphan brand pianos I have been pleased to play.
The "expense" of tuning is about $80 in the beginning and after that nothing. I tune my own pianos, also various ones I play in churches around. The highs need a lot more frequent adjustment than the bass notes. A good tuning wrench is about $50, a couple of tuning forks are about $16 each. Because the cycle of fifths has some flatting required, I use a C tuning fork and am going to purchase a F# or G# one. Takes about 2 hours for a really ignored piano. I pluck the string with a nail while holding down the keys with rolls of coins. Using the hammers with damping strip is so fiddly. Last time the piano I tuned in December was adjusted was apparently 1966, to go by the marking inside. A second pass will be required this month or next because the pitch rise was so radical.
There were some decent instruments made in the DDR; I played a "Miraphone" bassoon in the sixties from there. Check this one for decent tone, seven octaves. The most respected brand sold new these days fails this test IMHO. Test for tone & volume match of 1 string, 2 string, 3 string notes. Sign of quality voicing. Test for quick note repetition with two hands, my Sohmer will do 4 notes per beat at ~mm 132. Test that touch is even at ppp, that no notes dropout before others. Test dampers stop the notes. One or two not damping is easily adjusted with pliers if the felt is there. All notes not damping or never letting off is usually a damaged pedal or misplaced pushrod, common problems due to moving damage and easily repaired if the rod is in the bottom.
Look for scooped out hammer felts in the middle, too many hours. Look for wiggly hammer pivots, again sign of high hours. These are rare on home use pianos. Look for mouse or water damage to felt. Look for obvious sound board or frame cracks. Listen for buzzing at fff. Look for missing or spliced strings. (The Sohmer has a spliced bass string, worth $900 off when it was new and still working fine after 36 years). Listen before tuning for one note much flatter than others, often a sign of a loose pin or socket. Listen with the top up and down. If much louder top up, the sound board and kick board are too thick or the wrong wood. Thick parts will also kill the highs on the high notes. Look for plys in the pin block. I find solid maple ones require less frequent tuning.
Have fun shopping.
Topic: 1970's Rönisch upright piano - it's a good idea?